Neel’s Grandmother’s Melktert
Thursday, January 3rd, 2008
Penelope’s friend Neel (the brilliant Art Director who does all the Penelope Pies art) comes from South Africa, where his Ouma (pictured here) made the most incredible Melktert. Neel is of Boer descent, the Dutch settlers who came to Africa in 1652 and then promptly trekked their way up to the Transvaal because they were as independent as they were original, and not incidentally, terrific bakers. In fact, among Boer women, melktert making wasn’t just competitive, it was almost a contact sport.
Puff Pastry*
- 13 ounces all-purpose flour
- 1½ tsp (7 ml) salt
- 3 oz cold unsalted butter, cut in bits
- 7 oz cold water
- 10 ounces unsalted butter, softened
In a food processor, combine the flour, salt and (3 oz) pieces of cold butter
Process until a coarse meal is formed
With the processor running, slowly add the water
Turn the machine off as soon as the dough comes together to form a ball
Turn out onto a lightly floured surface
Knead the dough a few times by hand, rounding it into a ball
Wrap the dough tightly in plastic and chill overnight
Take the dough from the fridge and roll in the remaining butter
Note: It’s important that the dough and the second lot of butter be of almost equal consistency; if necessary, allow the dough to sit at room temperature to soften or chill the butter briefly to harden
On a lightly floured board, roll out the dough, using a dry pastry brush to brush away any flour from the dough’s surface
*But seriously, buy it. Almost every recipe that includes puff pastry suggests using pre-made puff pastry sheets. Just don’t tell Neel’s grandmother if you want a warm reception in Johannesburg.
Ingredients
- 1½ tsp butter
- good pinch salt
- 1 stick cinnamon
- 3 cups boiling milk
- 2 tsp custard powder
- 3 tsp corn flour
- 3 tsp cake flour
- 2 tsp cold milk
- ½ cup sugar
- 4 large eggs, separated
- ½ tsp almond essence
- cinnamon and sugar
The Filling
Combine the butter, salt, cinnamon and boiling milk
Combine the custard powder, corn flower and cake flour into a paste with the cold milk, then stir in a little of the hot milk mixture
Stir the custard mixture into the hot milk
Add 4 tsp of the sugar and bring to a boil, stirring continuously
When the mixture has thickened, remove from the stove and discard the cinnamon
Beat the egg whites until stiff but not dry
Gradually beat in the remaining sugar
Beat the egg yolks lightly and add a little of the custard mixture to the egg yolks
Stir the yolk/custard mixture into the main custard mixture and add the almond extract
Fold in the egg whites, being careful not to beat but add with a gentle folding motion
Pour the mixture into the pastry shells and bake for about 10 minutes
Lower the temperature to 350° and bake for another 10 to 15 minutes or until the filling has set
Cool slightly and sprinkle the top of the custard with cinnamon and sugar
Serve cold
On a busy (but scenic and perfectly art directed) October afternoon in the French countryside, in the kitchen of her Loire Valley inn, one of the Tatin sisters had prepared her usual (and fabulous) apple pie, put it in the oven, dusted off her hands on her pique apron, and was just about out of the kitchen when she noticed the pie crust was still on the table. Sacre bleu! But the quick thinking Tatin mademoiselle just gathered up the dough, pulled the pie pan out of the oven, fashioned the pastry on top of the fruit mixture, and put it all back in to bake. When it was done, she bravely flipped everything out of the pan, thereby creating an apple upside-down tart out of the apple pie, which became the eponymous Tarte Tatin. The guests were delighted and the sisters were thrilled. Although the issue of royalties still rankles.
